osCommerce
Toys For Wheels Aftermarket Car Parts And WheelsHomeWheels CatalogHomeCar AccessoriesWheel GalleryTechnical Wheel InformationDealers InformationContact Form

Technical Wheel Information

Sizing & Ratings:

Tire Sizing
Speed Ratings
Load Ratings
Sidewall Styles
Uniform Tire Quality Grading
Mixing Tires

Maintenance:

Tire Storage
Air Pressure
Tread Wear Indicator
Tire Rotation
Alignment
Puncture Repairs
Noise & Vibration Problems
When to Replace Tires
Mounting & Balancing


Tire Sizing

Passenger Tire sizing is typically displayed as:

P215/65R15 89H

  • The "P" stands for "P-Metric" or "Passenger". This means that it is a North American tire sizing designation. European tires typically don't have the "P" attached to the size. Tires with higher ply ratings will generally start with "LT" which stands for "Light Truck". This indicates the tire is an LT metric and will always have a Load Range indicated. It is important to note this for vehicles that call for LT metric tires. Never substitute a P metric tire for an LT metric tire, even if all the other dimensions are the same.

  • The "215" is the width of a tire, also known as the "section width". This is the width of the tire in millimeters at its widest point from sidewall to sidewall when mounted on the recommended rim width. The actual tire width can vary depending on the rim width it is mounted on.

  • The "65"is known as the Aspect Ratio. It is calculated by dividing the section height by the section width and multiplying by 100. (In this example, the sidewall will be 65% of 215)

  • The "R" stands for Radial, meaning it has a radial construction. Radial tires have ply cords that extend to the beads and are laid at 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread, the carcass being stabilized by a circumferential belt. Other possibilities include "B" for belted construction and "D" for diagonal construction. This means the ply cords extend to the beads and are laid at alternate angles less than 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread.

  • The "15" stands for the diameter of the wheel in inches. This is the exact size that this tire will fit. There are some older rims called "TRX" which are metric measurements like 390. You CAN NOT mix TRX rims with regular tires or vise-versa.

  • The "89" is the load index

  • The "H" is the speed symbol.

Speed Ratings

The speed rating of any tire is a measurement of the top safe speed the tire can carry a load under specified conditions. It is also an indication of how the tire will handle at lower speeds. A higher rated tire will give you better traction and improved steering response even at 50mph.

Below is a listing of common speed ratings:

Q =  99 MPH, 160km/h
S = 112 MPH, 180km/h
T = 118 MPH, 190km/h
U = 124 MPH, 200km/h
H = 130 MPH, 210km/h
V = 149 MPH, 240km/h
Z = 149 MPH, 240km/h and over
W = 168 MPH, 270km/h
Y = 186 MPH, 300km/h

It is not recommended to downgrade your tires to a lower speed rating than of the OEM tires that came with your vehicle at the time of purchase. Doing so can effect the handling of the car, and in an emergency situation that can be dangerous. Also, never mix tires with different speed ratings on your vehicle.

Load Ratings

The load rating for any tire (load index) indicates the maximum weight that each tire is able to support. Below is a quick rating of common Load Indexes:

Load Index Pounds (lbs) Kilograms (kgs)
60 551 250
61 567 257
62 584 265
63 600 272
64 617 280
65 639 290
66 662 300
67 677 307
68 695 315
69 717 325
70 739 335
71 761 345
72 783 355
73 805 365
74 827 375
75 853 387
76 882 400
77 908 412
78 937 425
79 964 437
80 990 450
81 1018 462
82 1047 475
83 1074 487
84 1102 500
85 1135 515
86 1168 530
87 1201 545
88 1234 560
89 1278 580
90 1323 600
91 1356 615
92 1389 630
93 1433 650
94 1477 670
95 1521 690
96 1565 710
97 1609 730
98 1653 750
99 1708 775
100 1764 800
101 1819 825
102 1874 850
103 1929 875
104 1984 900
105 2039 925
106 2095 950
107 2149 975
108 2205 1000
109 2271 1030
110 2337 1060
111 2403 1090
112 2469 1120
113 2535 1150
114 2601 1180
115 2679 1215
116 2750 1250
117 2833 1285
118 2911 1320
119 2999 1360
120 3080 1400
121 3197 1450
122 3308 1500
123 3410 1550
124 3528 1600
125 3638 1650


Sidewall Markings

Here are some other markings you may find on your tire's sidewall:

  • The M+S (also displayed as M&S or M-S) indicates the tire has all season capabilities. You will find this on almost all all season and winter tires. Summer tires will not have this designation. For a tire to get this designation, it must have a specified tread-to-void ratio, however it does not mean that the tire has passed any actual tests for it effectiveness in severe conditions.
  •  indicates a Severe Snow Conditions rating. Tires bearing this symbol will provide snow performance superior to tires only bearing the M+S symbol. These are the safest tires for any kind of winter driving. Some ski resorts will not even let you up their mountain if you do not have this symbol on your tires.
  • DOT stands for Department of Transportation. The 10, 11 or 12 digit code appearing after the DOT designation gives information such as the week and year the tire was produced, as well as the manufacturer, plant, tire line, and size. The first 2 characters designate the tire's manufacturer and plant code. The third, fourth and fifth characters, are the tire size code. The last three or four numbers (4 numbers for years after 2000) are when the tire was manufactured. The first two digits of the date code represent the week and the last 1 or 2 digits represent the year.
  • Maximum Inflation Pressure is the highest inflation pressure that the tire can withstand. This is not, however, the recommended inflation pressure. Inflation pressures should never be below the recommended pressure or above the maximum pressure branded on the sidewall.
    Also see Air Pressure.


Sidewall Descriptions

Below is a quick legend to notations describing the appearance of the tire's sidewall.

Sidewall Marking

Meaning

BCS BLACK CIRCUMFERENCIAL SERRATION
BL BLACK LETTERS
BSL BLACK SERRATED LETTERS
BSB BROKEN SERRATED BAND
ENWL EXTRA NARROW WHITE LETTERS
ROBL RAISED OUTLINED BLACK LETTERS
OWL OUTLINED WHITE LETTERS
OBL OUTLINED BLACK LETTERS
OGL OUTLINED GOLD LETTERS
ORBL OUTLINED RAISED BLACK LETTERS
ORWL OUTLINED RAISED WHITE LETTERS
OWL OUTLINED WHITE LETTERS
RBL RAISED BLACK LETTERS
RWL RAISED WHITE LETTERS
RRBL RECESSED RAISED BLACK LETTERS
SBL SERRATED BLACK LETTERS
SRBL SERRATED RAISED BLACK LETTERS
SOWL SLANTED OUTLINED WHITE LETTERS
SVSB SLANTED VERTICAL SERRATED BAND
VSB VERTICAL SERRATED BAND
WL WHITE LETTERS
WS WHITE STRIPE
WW WHITE WALL

Uniform Tire Quality Grading

The Uniform Tire Quality Grading rating is a quality rating system developed by the American Department of Transportation. It is designed to tell consumers the relative performance of passenger tires (but does not apply to winter tires).

Below is an example of a UTQG Rating:

150A B

The "150" indicates the treadwear rating
the "A" indicates traction
the "B" indicates temperature

The Treadwear rating is based on a wear test performed on a 400 mile government test course covering specified sections of public roads in Texas. A group of not more than 4 test vehicles travels the course in a convoy so that all tires experience the same conditions. Tread groove depths of the tires being tested are measured after each 800 miles. The same procedure is followed for a set of "control" or "course monitoring tires" Upon the completion of the 7200 mile test, the rating results of both tires are compared, and the tires being tested are assigned a treadwear rating according to government standards. This number can be used to compare between tires. In the above example, this tire rated 150 should last 1/2 as long as a tire rated 300. The relative performance of tires depends upon the actual conditions of their use and may be significantly different from the norm due to differences in road characteristics and climate.

The Traction ratings are AA, A, B, and C, from highest to lowest. This measurement indicates a tires ability to stop in a straight line on wet pavement. The rating is based on a 40mph test where the brakes are "locked up" on wet asphalt and wet concrete surfaces. It's important to remember that this rating does not indicate the tires ability to resists hydroplaning, and do not apply to cornering traction.

Temperature ratings are determined by running tires on an indoor roadwheel test under specified conditions. Successive 30 minute runs are made in 5mph increments starting at 75mph and continuing until the tires fails. Tires with an A rating must withstand at least 114mph, B at least 99mph, and C at least 85mph. These measurements indicate the tire's ability to sustain high temperatures which often cause tires to wear away quickly or in extreme conditions lead to sudden tire failure.

Mixing Tires

Generally tires should not be mixed on any vehicle. To receive maximum safety and performance it is preferable to keep every tire on a vehicle identical in size, brand, model, rating etc. One of the only exceptions is if the front and rear wheels are different like on all Porsche's and other high performance vehicles.

Tire Storage

Storing Winter Tires
The best place to store winter tires is in a cool, dry location. (Basement, or possibly a garage). You can lay them down flat, stacked on top of each other no taller than 4 high. This offers the most support and should eliminate any fitting problems the following fall. We also recommend that you return to the store/dealer from where you purchased your tires from and ask for storage bags. This will protect the tires from natural ozone in the air which can cause tire rubber to dry and crack. Wrap each tire individually and stack them. Stored tires should be kept away from electric motors or welders as these produce ozone which will damage the rubber over time.

Air Pressure

Are your tires set at the optimum inflation? Chances are they are anywhere from 8psi to 18psi less than recommended. The most common way of damaging tires is improper inflation. Low air pressure causes tires to experience irregular treadwear as well as poor vehicle handling and traction. Under inflated tires can build up excessive heat and blow out without warning.

Keeping your tires set at the manufacturer's recommended pressure is one of the easiest ways of saving gasoline, increasing tire treadlife, and ensuring safety. An Arizona Energy Office Report notes if your tires are inflated to 24psi, and you increase the air pressure to 32psi, your fuel mileage should increase by 3 miles per gallon (an average increase of 10%!)

Always check your air pressure and make adjustments when the tires are cold (tires have not been driven for 2 hours). Air pressure should be checked bi-weekly at the very least. This is important because as outside temperatures change, so does tire air pressure. A 10 degree drop in temperature can reduce tire pressure by 1psi. That means if you set your pressures in the July and don't check them again until December, you could have lost several psi, decreasing fuel mileage and causing pre-mature tire wear. Also remember to check your spare tire for loss of air.

If you are unsure how to use an air pressure gauge and hose, your local tire shop should be willing to show you the correct procedure. Always use a good quality tire pressure gauge that is not on a hose. The tire gauges built into the air hoses at your local garage have generally not been maintained and can not be trusted to be accurate.

*Note, air pressures can be “tuned”, however you should NEVER exceed the maximum pressure branded on the tire’s sidewall, and NEVER set pressures lower than recommended in the vehicle’s owners manual. Also, if you have altered your tire size from original, then the minimum pressure may need to be adjusted. Consult a rim/tire professional for correct pressures.



Tread Wear Indicator

As your tires wear down, their ability to grip the road decreases. Each tire has what are known as wear bars. These appear at various points around the tire as bars running through the tread design from one side of the tire to the other. When your tires are legally worn out (2/32") the tread will be at the same level as the tread wear indicators and they will be easily visible. Usually before the tire gets to this point, they will begin to feel unsafe. If that is the case, do not wait for them to get to the wear bars. Just because the tread depth is not as low as the tread wear bar, does not mean it is safe.

Tire Rotation

Because each tire on your car typically supports a different amount of weight, and your driving patterns will typically wear out one tire faster than the others, it's important to rotate your tires every 5000 to 8000 miles. Rotation patterns differ depending on what kind of vehicle you drive. The best place to check is in your vehicle's owners manual. If you can not find what you are looking for, below are some diagrams showing you the most common patterns.

Of course, if your vehicle has different sizes of tires from front to back, or if your tires are directional, these may not work. Consult a professional if you are still not sure.

Alignment

Vehicle alignment is one of the most important factors in not only vehicle care, but tire care. Improper alignment on either the front or rear wheels can result in unusual tread wear, damage to your suspension, and unusual handling for the car. Wheel alignments should be performed every time you install a new set of tires, and any time you experience an impact such as a large pot hole, curb, or other obstacle. For maintenance purposes, alignment should be checked every 30,000 km (about 18,700 miles).

There are several alignment types, including both two and four wheel alignment. Four wheel alignment is always recommended, but some vehicles are not able to have the rear alignment adjusted. Consult with an alignment specialist you trust to find out what's best for your car.

Warning signs that you might need an alignment are your car pulling to one side or another, and irregular tire wear.

Puncture Repairs

A puncture to any area of a tire's tread will affect performance and safety, and therefore must be immediately attended to through either replacement of the tire (spare or new tire) or a patch. Any patch that is applied to a tire must be applied to both the outer part of the tire (tread) and the inner part of the tire. The reason for this is that the rubber on each side is very different (inside is made of halobutyl rubber meant for holding air, while the outside is a harder durable rubber primarily designed for traction). A good tire repair can only be made if the tire is removed from the rim (wheel) and inspected carefully for any hidden damage. Only straight through holes, 3/16" or smaller diameter may be repaired, when no secondary damage has ocured.


Noise and Vibration Problems

Below are the most common (but not the only) causes of noise and vibration problems:

Do not ignore apparent impacts, pulling, or vibration. This could be an indicator of tire damage as much as mechanical problems that should be inspected by a professional. If there is a problem with your tires and the way they have been installed they will most likely begin to shake and vibrate your vehicle at between 50 and 65 mph.

When do you need to Replace Tires?

Tires are typically replaced when their natural lifespan has come to an end. There are however any number of factors that can affect this including storage, temperature, surfaces they are driven on, how aggressive of a driver you are, punctures, etc.

The usual recommendation for replacing tires is when they no longer feel safe to the driver. You can see when they are legally worn out using the tread wear indicator. A typical set of tires under normal driving conditions will last approximately 40 000 miles or 64 000 km. Some tires of-course are designed for much longer, even up to 80 000 miles or 128 000 kilometers.

Mounting and Balancing

When mounting wheels & tires on to the vehicle, ensure the following checks are made:

  • Wheels are not damaged in any way

  • There is no dirt or oily build up between the hub and the wheel

  • Lugs are properly torqued

  • Both tire beads are securely mounted

  • Any retaining clips on the brake drums are removed

Tires are manufactured to close tolerances, however as they wear their mass can become unevenly distributed, negatively effecting the original balance. The most common signs of unbalanced tires are vibration problems. These can affect the speed, handling and mileage of your vehicle. Balancing is done by a computer that spins the wheel / tire assembly, senses heavy spots, and gives a location for the technician to apply weight to counter the heavy spots. The best type of balance is a dynamic balance, and this should be performed whenever possible. (Some rim designs will not allow this type of balance and you would have to settle for a static balance)




Offset

The offset of a wheel is the distance from the mounting surface of the wheel to the true centerline of the rim. A positive offset means the mounting surface of the wheel is positioned in front of the true centerline of the rim / tire assembly. This in effect brings the tire in to the fender well more. Conversely, a negative offset means the mounting surface of the wheel is behind the true centerline of the rim / tire assembly. This will cause the tire to stick out away from the vehicle. To compare the effects of changing the offset and width of your wheels use the
Wheel Offset Calculator

Bolt Patterns

Each wheel has a different bolt pattern, and some wheels even have 2 different bolt patterns which allow it to be mounted on a wider range of vehicles.

Most Bolt Patterns are represented in the following manner:

4/100
  • The "4" indicates the number of holes in the wheel for the bolts to enter and mount the wheel onto the car.
  • The "100" indicates the diameter of the bolt circle measured in millimeters or inches. 4 & 6 bolt wheels are measured from the center of one bolt hole to the center of the bolt hole directly across from it. On a 5 bolt pattern, it is a bit trickier to measure without special tools. Imagine a circle running through the centers of each bolt hole. You would measure from the center of one bolt hole to the imaginary circle that lays between the opposite two bolt holes.

Plus Sizing

Plus sizing your wheel & tire combination was designed to enhance vehicle performance and looks by allowing  fitment of larger diameter rims and lower profile tires. The theory is that while making these changes, you keep the overall tire diameter within 3% of the original equipment tires. This is important because larger variances can cause problems with transmission shift points which can decrease fuel mileage. It can also confuse braking system computers which can even lead to brake failure.

Here's the rule of thumb for "plus sizing":

Plus 1:
Increase section width by 10mm
Decrease aspect ratio by 10 points
Increase rim diameter by 1 inch

Plus 2:
Increase section width by 20mm
Decrease aspect ratio by 20 points
Increase rim diameter by 2 inches.

This is not exact, but it will usually get you in the right ballpark. We always recommend consulting with the people you are purchasing the wheels and tires from to ensure fitment.

For tire size comparisions try our Tire Size Calculator.

Wheel Care

It is important to keep your wheels clean at all times. Your brakes will cause the wheels to heat up, and this heat in turn can cause any dirt or brake dust to cook in to the clear coat. If this happens, there's not a lot you can do besides having the wheels refinished. Protect your investment and keep your wheels clean!

Below are some simple instructions on how take care of your wheels:

  • Do not use household cleaners or other detergents to clean your wheels. The best wheel cleaning solution is a mild soap and water solution (what ever you would trust on the paint of your car).   Clean with a soft, un-abrasive cloth. Only on polished wheels can you use aluminum wheel polish. If you use this polish on chrome, painted, or clear coated wheels, you will only scratch or dull the finish.
  • Do not use steam cleaners in automatic car washes.
  • Do not use any tire cleaners on your wheels.
  • Clean wheels when they are cool. Heat can effect the soap, causing it to dry on the wheel and become difficult to rinse off.
  • Clean one wheel at a time. This also prevents the soap from drying on to the wheel.
  • After the wheels are clean and dry, apply a coat of soft paste style wax to them. This will create a moisture barrier and help ensure the finish lasts as long as possible.

Centerbore

This relates to the center hole in the wheel that centers the wheel on the hub of the car. Since most wheels are mass produced, they have a large center bore to accommodate several different vehicles. If this is the case, it is recommended that you use a hub ring. Hub rings are hard plastic or metal ring that fits between the wheel and the vehicle. This centers the wheel perfectly on the hub ensuring that there is no run out when the wheel is installed on to the vehicle. Without hub rings it is possible to get vibrations even if the wheel / tire assembly is perfectly balanced.

Torque

All alloy wheels should be installed using a torque wrench. This ensures that the wheels are not too tight or too loose. Check your vehicle's manual for correct settings. When you install wheels for the first time, you should re-torque wheels after about 100km to 150km (60 to 90 miles).

Alloy vs. Steel

The main differences between alloy and steel wheels lie in their durability and strength. Most high-performance wheels are made of an alloy and composed of aluminum, and other metallic substances. By using alloy wheels, you not only improve the looks of your vehicle but also the performance. The extra strength provides longevity as well as effecting tire wear in a positive manner. The weight reduction will improve steering response and handling, as well as help improve acceleration and braking.

Wheel Construction

There is a good variety of ways of constructing wheels. Most alloy wheels are made in either one, two or three piece construction types. One piece is just what it says, a wheel made in a mold as a single piece. Two piece wheels are made of two separate pieces (center and barrel) that are usually welded or bolted together. Three piece wheels are made of three separate pieces. They have a center, and inside rim half, and an outside rim half. They are bolted together using the highest quality fasteners.

Manufacturing method is very important in the overall quality and performance of a wheel. Here are the most common types of manufacturing techniques employed:

Forging
Considered to be the best manufacturing technique, forging allows for the compression of an aluminum billet (one solid piece of aluminum) into an aluminum wheel using over 13 million pounds of pressure combined with heat. This produces a wheel that is both stronger and lighter then your standard aluminum wheel.

A subset of forging is called roll forging. In this process, a metal blank is run through rollers with impressions sunk in to their surface giving the wheel its final shape. This allows the wheel to be produced with less aluminum, reducing weight but maintaining strength.

Low Pressure Casting
This is the most common form of rim manufacturing. Much like a casting, liquid metal is poured into a mold and allowed to harden until the finished wheel is cool enough to be taken out of the casting.

Counter Pressure Casting
Opposite to low pressure casting, the liquid metal is not poured, rather it is sucked into the mold using a vacuum. This reduces impurities making the wheel much stronger than a low pressure cast rim.

Hardware

The hardware holding your wheels to your car is an often overlooked step when installing new rims. Most aftermarket wheels require different wheel nuts / bolts than what was used on the original equipment wheels. Wheel nuts and bolts have many different seats (where the nut touches the wheel). The 3 most common are acorn seat (conical), ball seat (radius), and mag shank seat. These differences along with different lengths and diameters makes hardware very confusing. Always check with the people who supplied your wheels for the correct mounting hardware before trying to install them on your vehicle..


Copyright © 2006-2009 Altura Enterprises Inc. All Rights Reserved.